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Old 02-23-2008, 08:42 PM   #1
stripperguy
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DY Special solo boat

Well, Im finally going to build that solo boat!!
Plans arrived this week, I've got them into CAD already so I can easily transfer to plywood forms.
The design is a DY Special. I fell in love with the boat forever ago, and soon I'll have a strip version...hopefully I can keep the weight near 30 lbs...
Yeow, I am psyched!!
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Old 02-24-2008, 05:34 PM   #2
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DY Special

Neat old boat! You might dial in a little bow rocker, which is easy to do on the strongback.
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Old 02-24-2008, 05:40 PM   #3
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I'd love to see step by step pictures!
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Old 02-24-2008, 09:40 PM   #4
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Thanks for the tip, Charlie. I'm about to layout the forms, so I'll take a look at the rocker closely. How much would you add, if you were building this hull? The tumblehome is pretty radical, I can't wait to see it in cedar!
ADK-DRIFTER--sure, maybe a teaser or two here and more on webshots. Nothing to show yet, just some sections every foot or so.
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:30 AM   #5
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DY Super Special Rocker

I'd dial in about an inch and a half at the bow, half that in the stern; pretty much like Magic.

Remember the tendency for strips to bridge in the stems, which is why so many strippers end up hogged.

As you've obviously contacted DY for plans, ask him about how to set the stem sections.

Staple well.
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Old 02-25-2008, 07:36 AM   #6
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and dont forget to jigger the spars and add a little mustard to the keel, or the quarter deck tends to get a little splooshy.
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Old 02-25-2008, 08:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbitling View Post
and dont forget to jigger the spars and add a little mustard to the keel, or the quarter deck tends to get a little splooshy.
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Old 02-25-2008, 11:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbitling View Post
and dont forget to jigger the spars and add a little mustard to the keel, or the quarter deck tends to get a little splooshy.







Now he tells me!.....Not enough mustard, whoda knowed!!

Last edited by DRIFTER; 02-25-2008 at 12:22 PM..
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:49 PM   #9
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I'm kind of limited with what can be posted, but here is a wire frame layout of all the form sections, sorry about the poor res...
Forms maybe next week, everything fits on 1 1/2 sheets of 3/4 ply.
You can get a pretty good view of the radical tumblehome, but the splooshy mustard is hard to see from this view.
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File Type: jpg DY Special 3D-Model.jpg (32.2 KB, 661 views)
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:43 PM   #10
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Never having built a canoe I'm unfamiliar with the terms and procedures. Is the wire frame to use in shaping the plywood to make a mold? Sorry if that sounds naive, but I am very interested. Appreciate the pix, keep em coming!
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:38 AM   #11
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ADK-DRIFTER,
When I received the plans, they are just line drawings on paper, as are most plans. The lines represent the various cross sections of the hull as you move from bow to stern. most plans also only represent half of the hull, right or left, it doesn't matter which, since the hulls are symmetric left to right.
I generally transfer these hand drawn lines from the planset to a CAD based system. Later I can print full size patterns and glue them to plywood to cut the temporary forms.
The wire frame view that I posted just shows these cross section in their proper spatial locations, to better visualize the shape of the finished hull.
In the overall scheme of things, strip building a canoe is a lot easier than most people think, it's just a series of small steps, with half of the work being sanding....
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Old 02-27-2008, 02:45 PM   #12
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Thanks for explaining! Gotch ya up to the temporary forms, I'll await your next post[s]. I believe I saw a finished product of yours on a different thread, it came out great.........
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Old 03-19-2008, 02:09 PM   #13
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Huge Newsflash

OK, maybe not huge, just an update.
I just printed the full size patterns for all forms for the DY Special. I'll probably buy the plywood for the forms this week.
I am borrowing a strongback from a much longer boat, so I have added a few inches to the form heights so not to need to mess up the strongback ends.
I really enjoy watching the transition from a bunch of lines on paper to full scale lines on paper, then seeing the forms all lined up!! Even just seeing the full size patterns can give you a good idea of the how well the boat will fit...
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Old 03-20-2008, 02:46 PM   #14
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More Details?

Mike,
Do you know what the dimensions will be yet? How wide, depth, length? How will it compare to Bell solos that I think David Yost (that's who DY is, right?) has designed, such as the Bucktail or the Merlin? Or is there another already existing boat that would be a good point of comparison--different materials notwithstanding?
By the way, just sent you an email.

Gerry Magnes
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Old 03-21-2008, 01:37 PM   #15
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Gerry,
The Special was the father? of the Shockwave, which was the uncle? of the Magic, if I remember dave's description correctly.
It is 16'8'' lg with a 27 in beam at 4' waterline. Bow and stern are 15 and 13, roughly...
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Old 03-21-2008, 02:18 PM   #16
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Its going to be 16'8" and around 30lbs????
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:34 PM   #17
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That's the goal. whether I reach that goal is another story entirely. I work in R & D and regularly do that which has never been done before, so anything is possible. If we always set our sights low, none of us would ever do anything much. If I can squeak by with a single layer of 4 oz in and out, and keep my strips thin, i have a shot! The DY Special doesn't have a lot of hull, so that helps too. I also use as light weight gunwhale material and keep the seat frames and thwarts as light as possible as well.
If I recall, Graybeard just built a very lightweight stripper...
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Old 03-23-2008, 08:36 PM   #18
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Update: forms are cut

For those of you who may be thinking about building a boat, here is the next couple of steps:
I have already transfered all the line drawings to Autocad and printed full size patterns. I then glue the full size patterns to some 3/4 plywood and cut out the forms on a bandsaw. After all the forms are cut out, I will attach them temporarily to a frame, or strongback. The forms look a little funny since they have some extra height on them to clear the borrowed strongback. The DY is shorter than the strongback and I don't want the hull near the stems to interfere with the strongback, so I just moved everything up above the strongback by 3 inches.
The photos show these steps and show the forms lined up on the boat shop floor at about the right spacing...you can see the hull appear before your eyes!! OK, maybe not just yet, but soon.
Oh, and please excuse the mess in the boat shop, it's been a while since any boats were actually built there. I still need to clean up the leftover Opel GT parts, Jeep CJ8 parts and the extra appliances...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_0846 small.jpg (58.8 KB, 562 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0844 small.jpg (76.8 KB, 549 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0845 small.jpg (53.2 KB, 538 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0847 small.jpg (53.2 KB, 520 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0848 small.jpg (66.9 KB, 516 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0850 small.jpg (71.2 KB, 513 views)
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Old 03-23-2008, 08:41 PM   #19
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30 pounds?

I did a quick calculation of the DY hull surface are. It is about 55 sq ft. If I assume 3/16 strips of Western Red Cedar, a single layer of 4 oz glass inside and out, and enough epoxy resin to wet out the inside and cover the outside, I come up with 25 lb for the bare hull. To that I must still add decks and bulkheads, gunwales, thwarts and a seat. I might make it!!
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:30 AM   #20
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I built a Merlin, only 15.5 ft, and used 4 oz glass both inside & out. The outside is smooth, but I let the inside be rough so that less epoxy would be used. The gunwales are small, only becoming thick around midship to support the seat and thwarts. Of course the Cherry seat and decks added some weight, but she came in at 35 lbs. I just love it.

Can't wait to see that DY.

Brian
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