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Old 12-11-2013, 10:08 PM   #1
EagleO-10
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XC Ski and Beginner Ice Climb

I've got a friend coming in with no ice-climbing experience. We're looking for somewhere where we can xc-ski a few miles in, throw our stuff down, make a "base camp" and set up some fun little top-rope ice climbs that we can mess around on for the day (Pitchoff-esque). Nothing crazy, just enough to sink some ice tools in to. I can't think of anywhere off the top of my head where we could get the skiing and quiet backcountry ice climbing. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:17 AM   #2
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I understand there are some ice climbing routes on the S side of Pharaoh Mtn. The XC ski into the lake is not difficult and there are several lean-tos on the N shore. This may be worth looking into more. Less snow in this region than elsewhere in the park typically so updated conditions would be helpful. I have seen periodic reports here if the climbs are "in" or not.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:49 AM   #3
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Re: XC Ski and Beginner Ice Climb

Pharaoh looks really cool, actually!

The ideal location I think would be somewhere in near The Flower Lands. I skiid into there last winter and it was a fantastic time. We sat down and had lunch right at the base of some small cliffs by the water, something like that would be awesome. Any ideas?
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Old 12-12-2013, 03:21 PM   #4
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Snoop around here

http://www.iceclimbingforums.com/forum.php

for ideas, conditions reports, etc.

Pharaoh is a beatiful area, but, from the lake to the climbs is a bit of an up and down hill thrash on an old horse trail. I think you'd want snowshoes in addition to skis. Also, I don't think it's easy to set up top ropes on the main climbing there, unless you're up for leading P1 (3-4, depending on conditions).

I know the cliff at Flowed Lands, but I don't think it gets much ice (SE facing).

Unfortunately, lots of ice areas are tough to TR. Pitchoff Right is a "little miracle" in terms of how perfectly it's set up.
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Old 12-12-2013, 05:59 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by TCD View Post
I know the cliff at Flowed Lands, but I don't think it gets much ice (SE facing).

Unfortunately, lots of ice areas are tough to TR. Pitchoff Right is a "little miracle" in terms of how perfectly it's set up.
Those cliffs were just an example of what an idea location would be, for us. This will be our friends first time in the 'Daks and we want to impress him so someplace open like that with some views of surrounding peaks would be spectacular. I.e Lake Colden, AVY Pass, Flowed Lands, etc.

I'm not opposed to leading a pitch or two to get a top rope set up, either. I have the experience for that, I just want to have someplace with a few solid trees up high so we can set up a top rope for the inexperienced guy.
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Old 12-12-2013, 07:19 PM   #6
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Hoffman Notch has some real nice ice about 2 miles in from the Blue Ridge Road side. IIRC, there is no walk-around to set up a TR but there are some easier lines to lead (WI2-3) scattered about. There are really no open view but it is a beautiful valley with a stream running through it.

Directions here: http://www.adirondackrock.com/newrou...#Hoffman_Notch

None of the ice routes are published yet but I believe they will be in the new ice guide coming out soon. There is a binder at the climbing gear counter at The Mountaineer that has some route info for HN in it.
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Old 12-12-2013, 07:46 PM   #7
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I agree, Val. Hoffman is a perfect place with a 2 mile ski and lots of ice, and not too many people. I thought of Hoffman (naturally!), but I was waiting for Eagle to say he was OK leading to set up TRs.

I'm pretty sure Hoffman will be in the new ice guide. In the interim, Jim Lawyer has a very good detailed write up on it; if he chimes in on this thread he might be able to post some more details.

No high peak views there, but great climbing.

For the most impressive views, and if you want a workout, another option would be the reliable roadcut ice near the top of the Whiteface highway. Not very high ice, but high elevation andd lots of views.
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Old 12-23-2013, 12:36 PM   #8
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Anyone know of anything in the Marcy Dam/Avalanche Pass area? Just because I know those spots, that would be a fantastic area to bring him in to, if theres anything little there that we can set up a solid top rope to swing around on.

Found this: http://www.iceclimbingforums.com/sho...ll=1#post60231

Anyone know anything?
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Old 12-23-2013, 05:31 PM   #9
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I think there is a little top roping you can do there, just before the slide. Be careful and read the thread - I would never hang out for any period of time right below that slide - high avy danger!

Also, a little ways past Marcy dam, there is a camping area on the left (east) of the trail across from the lean to. If you go straight through to the back of the camping area there are some low cliffs that I think get some ice - it's worth checking out to see if there's anything there, you'll probably have it to yourselves.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:30 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCD View Post
I think there is a little top roping you can do there, just before the slide. Be careful and read the thread - I would never hang out for any period of time right below that slide - high avy danger!

Also, a little ways past Marcy dam, there is a camping area on the left (east) of the trail across from the lean to. If you go straight through to the back of the camping area there are some low cliffs that I think get some ice - it's worth checking out to see if there's anything there, you'll probably have it to yourselves.
Any idea which lean-to passed Marcy Dam? That sounds like something that would be awesome to check out.

And when everyone talks about the Avalanche Slide, are we talking about the south-west side of the pass or the slide on the north end? Heres a map I found, I'm familiar with the pass just not the common names of the different features: http://www.jimlawyer.com/Adirondacks...ap_Labeled.jpg

Thanks!
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:55 PM   #11
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Most folks mean the one at the north end, that came down in 1999 with Hurricane Floyd. That's the trapezoidal one that's so obvious from Marcy Dam. It's right at the height of land in the pass. I would stay out from under that - the bottom of the slide ends in a small cliff (about 40') and it would be bad to be under that in an avalanche.

Where I'm talking about is around here:

http://www.adirondackrock.com/new_ma...95093235323502
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:55 PM   #12
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There's a nice waterfall (40 ft) at the far end of Cascade Lake in the Pigeon Lake wilderness. Near inlet NY.
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:16 PM   #13
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Reviving this dicussion a bit, here's another thought. I bet there is climbable ice at Wanika Falls.

Not sure what it looks like frozen...might be weird, or challenging...

It's pretty far in the wilderness (don't get hurt!), and you would probably need snowshoes for the short spur trail off the NP...

Might want to wait for ski conditions to improve...

Anyone seen any reports of ice climbing at Wanika?
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