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Old 10-19-2012, 02:04 PM   #1
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Wiessner Route on Upper Washbowl

I climbed the classic Wiessner Route on Upper Washbowl yesterday. What a fun outing. I posted a blog on the Adirondack Explorer site that includes video of EMS guide Matt Wiech talking about the climb.

Click here to see the post.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:05 PM   #2
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Nice! THanks for the report! That's a great and classic route. I think it gets overlooked because it's fairly easy, no "big numbers." But it's always fun, and if it's too easy, you can do what my buddy and I did years ago and climb it at night in a rainstorm to spice it up. We also held a surprise birthday party for someone on the Slanting Ledge, complete with cake, champagne, etc.

Lots of fun memories on that route.

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Old 10-25-2012, 08:20 AM   #3
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I remember doing it in the late '70's. My first multi-pitch climb.

My nerves got to me on the second pitch while I was belaying my buddy Carl who was leading. He was out of sight of me when I called up to him and asked him if he was in a good place. He said" Well I can be" and slapped in some not so great protection while listening to his belayer dry heave below him. I felt much better after that little episode and called up to him, "climb on!" To which he hollered "Are you alright!?!"
"Yeah, I',m fine",
"OK, Climbing",
"Climb away"
and we finished the route.

From then on Carl referred to that climb as the one where I puked on his rope....Yup, great memories.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:24 PM   #4
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I finally led this yesterday. It had been on my docket all year but I wanted to wait for a cooler day. Upper Washbowl bakes in the summer sun.

The whole route has an adventure feel. Love that last pitch...wish it went on for 200 feet.

My partner, who is a very strong climber, had problems with the exposure...not to the point of dry-heaving but still he was a bit on edge.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:14 PM   #5
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The Washbowl cliff is wonderful that way with the exposure, because it's at the top of a big steep hill, so after one pitch you feel like you're 500' up already.

If you want the full flavor, next summer grab a lap on Overture. The climbing is not really that hard (5.8, with a bit of a "leap of faith" at the top), but the exposure is way out there.
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