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Old 09-27-2005, 09:50 AM   #21
chrix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin
I know Chrix started a forum for climbing that included the dacks, but haven't heard of anything since. The adkclimbs.com forum (mentioned above) looks pretty empty .
It's not empty at all. The main posters on the board are mostly ice climbers, and, as you can see, it is not ice season YET! I am slowly adding more routes to the rock section as my time allows, and slowly looks like people are filtering in. Most are guests tho, and arent posting... o well!

Ice season is near!
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Old 10-04-2005, 10:52 AM   #22
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I know I am getting into this one late, but I used to climb quite a bit in the Keene Vally area (around Chapel Pond). It has been a few yeards.

If you go west from chapel pond, there is a very small campsite (on the west side) and then about another hundred yards or so down the hill, there is a pulloff on the south side of the road. Park here and walk south (up over the hill and perpendicular to the road). This will take you back to the Beer Walls. A wider variety of climbs cannot be found in one area. Everything from 20' on up to about 150' and 5.2s to 5.13s (or so).

Just be careful when you hike back in there (just a few hundred yards). Depending on where you go in, you may end up at the top of one of the walls. If it looks like it drops off sharply.....it probably does!
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Old 10-05-2005, 10:56 AM   #23
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Greymane,

How far west from chapel pond is the campsite?

Joe
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Old 10-06-2005, 10:49 PM   #24
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I've climbed on Moxham Dome as well as in the Quarry (on the way to the dome) and on the Cartoon Wall (NW of the Dome).
I did Virtual Reality and the Grotto on the Dome itself. Both had a fair amount of need for cleaning, as the entire dome has fallen into obscurity in the past couple decades. VR had some great moments and was better protected than most of the routes there.
The quarry has a few good TR routes in the 5.9 to 5.12 range, but little if any that might be easier.
If you're looking around that area for TR potential, Crane Mtn. has some top-roping within 15 minutes of the trailhead, as well as a lot on the summit. Huckleberry has some about 40 minutes from the trailhead, as does Shanty Cliffs. There are many other areas in the S Daks, but many of them are quite obscure or require careful circumvention of private property.
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Old 10-13-2005, 12:02 AM   #25
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Been there in 96

I did the dome several times in the early 90's..last time in 96. It's not a bad little climb, dirty of course. There had been a trail directly to the base, but then after some logging was done the logging road made the trail more of a switchback. There's some runout, but it will really get you comfortable with friction climbing by the end. I used mostly cams and stoppers for pro. There were some solid trees for rappelling, we had 2 - 60M ropes knotted together for those.
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Old 10-13-2005, 08:38 AM   #26
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JC and Dory,
Thanks for the info! I was hoping to get up there b4 the snow flies but the rain won' t stop!! (It's only been a week straight now )
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:53 PM   #27
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Bumpity Bump Bump Bump.

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Old 05-22-2006, 08:50 PM   #28
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We've enjoyed climbing in the area for 5-6 years. - In the 'dax it's mostly been the Keene Valley area, thinking of heading over to the Southeastern region this weekend, Shanty Cliff, or other spots around the North Creek area, for something different. Like the 'dax for the off-day hiking opportunities. Always enjoy hooking up with other like-minded climbers/hikers.

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Old 05-27-2006, 09:06 PM   #29
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Bummer I didn't see this before the weekend.
Where'd you go and what'd you end up doing?
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Old 05-30-2006, 09:48 PM   #30
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We started from the little pull off, didn't see a trail, so we took a compass bearing, and walked upstream, found a nice trail, but it turned out to be to a hunting camp. So the Shanty Cliff project got derailed by bogs, game trails, and black flies ..... so we ended up at the known commodity: Beer Wall. Anyway, looking to investigate Good Luck Cliffs soon. Would still like to check out the crags around North Creek. What advice would you have? Want to get together sometime?
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Old 05-30-2006, 10:42 PM   #31
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My first advice: black fly season is a bad time of year to climb, lol! The last two Mays have not been good climbing months; lots of cold rain and black flies.
Given that, you are best off heading for large, open areas as far from wilderness streams as possible. That leaves out a lot of the North Creek area climbing potential. Rogers Rock may be a good option: it dries quickly and usually has a decent breeze to reduce the bugs. That isn't really the NC area of course, but it's not too far a drive and I think one of the 'must-do' climbing places on the east coast.
The summit cliffs on Crane Mtn. are also often breezy, though the bottom of every route puts you in the thick of things and will have more bugs than fun at this time of year. Chimney Mtn has some climbing potential but a lot of loose rock.
Echo Cliffs or Good Luck Cliffs may be good options but to be honest I haven't gotten to them yet, so I don't know what 'breeze factor' they have. During Black Fly Season that is the most important consideration!
Give me a shout the next time you're all heading up this way and if I've got a day off and you all don't mind waiting for a fat old hasbeen I'll show you around the cliffs on Crane or Huckleberry or Gore.
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Old 06-09-2006, 06:05 PM   #32
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Well, if we ever get another weekend, with less than 50% chance of rain forecasted, we'll check in w/you. Have had to go to the local climbing gym the past couple weekends.
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Old 06-12-2006, 09:36 AM   #33
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What gives with this weather?! I've had the ropes out once (and got rained on that day).
We went to Chimney Mtn and explored the cliffs by the road just before the trailhead. They are quite dirty: the rock there seems to be perfect for plant growth, and so every corner is terribly vegetated. The faces are pretty thick with rock tripe: clean this off and there are some excellent but unprotectable climbs. Bolt kits, anyone?
I'm hoping to get down to the Gunks this week if the weather holds up, but I sense all the climbing buddies are starting to back out of that plan, so I don't know what's going to happen.
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Old 06-13-2006, 06:20 PM   #34
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Well, Jclimbs, the forecast is looking good so far. We are currently planning Little Falls on Saturday, and then are a bit flexible for Sunday. Good Luck Cliffs is open to exploration, or we'll head a bit further north & explore the North Creek area again. E-mail or PM if you'll be around and are still willing to be the trail blazer.
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