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Old 05-06-2008, 05:54 PM   #21
Hobbitling
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If this were a few hundred years ago, this would be grounds for a duel!!

Do either of you happen to have a matched set of flintlock pistols or dueling swords?
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:01 PM   #22
JClimbs
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Dawes,
Thank you for your lucid response in what has become a tangled emotional ridiculissima. My original post conveyed the attitude engendered by your conversation with the climber that day at Shanty. Whether it was a predisposition waiting for an excuse, or the conversation's content had something to do with the resultant observations is for the persons who were there to reflect and learn upon. I know, having seen what this thread has spiralled into, that I will do the same.
Here's hoping we do get to climb together some time.
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:33 AM   #23
IC148
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Hi everyone thank you for all the help and info! However I have a few more questions as the last few posts have confused me.

JClimbs preaches "honorable attitude and action," and seems well versed in correcting "character flaws" of other climbers. However, this BODHI17 guy comes on board and presents a bunch of fancy sounding "credentials" which I find highly suspect seeing as he only has 1 post, which leads me to believe he may not even be a rockclimber, but instead some kind of poser trying to show off. It appears to me that he is trying to use a bunch of internet links and technical jargon as smoke and mirrors to distract the real climbers, like JClimbs and hobbitling, from the actual topics which were being discussed such as "wanton murder of civilians" and "imagining disrespectful little pricks peeling potatoes."

As a new climber who should I be listening to here?
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Old 05-07-2008, 08:13 AM   #24
Hobbitling
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Oh I'm not a climber, I just hate to see perfectly good potatoes going unpeeled. an unpeeled potato murdered my father, and I have a vendetta against them.

In all seriousness though, I'm glad BODHI17 was able to tell the other side of the story. I had sort of missed the part where it said this was a second hand story, and was operating under the assumption that the situation happened as described. next time I will read more carefully.

So...I still get off imagining disrespectful little pricks peeling potatoes (or any tuber or root vegetable). However there is now some doubt in my mind as to whether these particular climbers were actually being disrespectful little pricks.
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:59 AM   #25
chairrock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IC148 View Post
Hi everyone thank you for all the help and info! However I have a few more questions as the last few posts have confused me.

JClimbs preaches "honorable attitude and action," and seems well versed in correcting "character flaws" of other climbers. However, this BODHI17 guy comes on board and presents a bunch of fancy sounding "credentials" which I find highly suspect seeing as he only has 1 post, which leads me to believe he may not even be a rockclimber, but instead some kind of poser trying to show off. It appears to me that he is trying to use a bunch of internet links and technical jargon as smoke and mirrors to distract the real climbers, like JClimbs and hobbitling, from the actual topics which were being discussed such as "wanton murder of civilians" and "imagining disrespectful little pricks peeling potatoes."

As a new climber who should I be listening to here?
Google Dawes Strickler
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:48 PM   #26
cavewine
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Lightbulb climbing ettiquitting

Today I stumbled my way through the internet and discovered this discussion, and so I must speak up....

I was climbing at Shanty on 4/26. Next to and surrounded by the 10+ cadets from West Point.

I am the climber who suggested to the West Point guide that he utilize his own gear for toproping and lowering off, and refrain from running the rope directly through the anchors for this purpose. The guide clearly spoke to his trainees to not bother putting any quickdraws or carabiners on anchors at the top of the pitch, and just use the anchors themselves to bear the brunt.

I found this strange, and still do, after hearing this person's credentials. I have not been climbing as long as he claims, nor am I a certified guide. But I have been on the "scene" long enough to know that in regards to this behavior, it is frowned upon quite heavily. It is considered to be inconsiderate, wasteful, and arrogant. Putting in anchors takes a bit of time and money, and I'm thankful when past climbers have done a good job in their installations.

I attempted to inform the guide about this matter, and was rebuffed. I found his attitude to be rather cavalier about the whole thing.
If this is what guiding teaches new climbers, it is a shame.

I ran into JClimb the next day, and proceeded to tell him of our previous day's run-in with the cadets. I hope I did not misconstrue the events of the day. I believe I was accurate in my portrayal of the events.

The cadets and their guide were not bad people, and they didn't trash the place, make a horrible amount of noise, or interfere with our climbing. All in all, they appeared to be friendly and generally safe and competent. Certainly, I was abit chagrined to find almost a dozen people show up at a (relatively) wilderness climbing area like that. I don't know if I would bring that many people to a place like that all at once. But that there's my opinion. I'm a cantankerous misanthrope at heart.
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:00 PM   #27
seismo
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Dawes is a very good friend of mine and you can trust the source of that information. I have been climbing for about 20+ years now, 10 of them with Dawes....not that my name has any cred on this forum either.

Regards,

Paul Friberg
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:16 AM   #28
cavewine
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anchors and their use

a handy reference for cold shuts:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg NRG_anchor1.JPG (75.9 KB, 27 views)
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