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Old 09-05-2006, 10:33 PM   #21
hikersteve
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this was the first one of mine that worked (it is lower saranac lake from bluff island)



except there was one more picture to the right that didnt stitch - does that mean it was taken improperly? about what is the best amount of overlap to use?
sadly i took pictures from niagara falls and street with the intent of creating pans, but neither set of pictures worked

PS - this pano only worked with default autostitch settings
Please help me.
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:54 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Kyler
Here is what I've noticed regarding the overlap between the individual pictures.

If I use the panorama setting on my camera (Canon), the pictures have a large overlap (almost 50%). This works well with AutoStitch. I think one of the reasons that the results are nice, is that with the large overlap, if your individual pictures have any vignetting around the edges, the software has enough overlap to avoid using that area of the picture. PhotoShop's photomerge doesn't like the large overlap, and won't automatically create the panorama. But there is a manual mode that allows you to arrange the pictures yourself, and once you have the general overlap lined up, PhotoShop figures it out and does the "fine tuning".

I have also played around with pictures that I took that were not in panorama mode, that had a much smaller overlap. With these pictures, AutoStitch wouldn't create the panorama, but PhotoShop worked without an issue.

So, I guess my advice is if your camera has panorama functionality, use that, if not overlap your pictures quite a bit for better results.
Hikersteve, this is about the best post on the subject of overlapping and autostitch.

Unfortunately autostitch is a free application, and even I have trouble every now and then getting an image to work. Generally though they work fine if you have a 10%+ overlap. I also think it's possible to overlap the images too much because I've had images that overlapped 30%+ and wouldn't work in autostitch...

The requirements for images to work in autostitch is trail and error. We're trying to figure that out now .
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Old 09-06-2006, 11:56 AM   #23
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Thought you guys might like these:





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Old 09-06-2006, 02:22 PM   #24
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great shots. expecially the rocky mountain view. where were they taken?
is that first one a sunset or sunrise? I'm guessing sunset.
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Old 09-06-2006, 05:03 PM   #25
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nice shots percious!
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Old 09-06-2006, 09:47 PM   #26
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1) Sunrise on Elbert
2) Glacier Valley on the Keyhole Route, Longs Peak.

Thanks guys.

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Old 10-08-2006, 08:29 AM   #27
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Here's a 360 from Ampersand
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Old 10-09-2007, 12:19 PM   #28
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Some recent panos having my camera set manually (it's critical to do this and my laziness in prior panoramics shows because they just don't blend as well):





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Old 10-10-2007, 01:11 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Hikersteve, this is about the best post on the subject of overlapping and autostitch.

Unfortunately autostitch is a free application, and even I have trouble every now and then getting an image to work. Generally though they work fine if you have a 10%+ overlap. I also think it's possible to overlap the images too much because I've had images that overlapped 30%+ and wouldn't work in autostitch...

The requirements for images to work in autostitch is trail and error. We're trying to figure that out now .
A side effect of overlap is better exposure consistency in uneven scenes.

You can compensate for this by adjusting exposure during the shots and overlapping by quite a bit to get more even transitions.

I don't use autostich but I've found similar high overlap to merge issues with all programs. I assume autostitch has a manual point alignment? If so, it's more work to line them up yourself but the end result is a flawless image.

An example of a high overlap image that still didn't quite work out perfectly as the variation between light and shadows was just too extreme. I did 30% overlap and 25+ vertical shots. This ended up being a 750MB image and about 40 Megapixels.



However, here is a good example of overlap working...the field while apearing evenly lit really has a 1-2 stop difference in spots.




If you are shooting evenly lit scenes there isn't a real compelling reason to overlap by a lot. I'd think 5-10% is plenty. Closer to 5% if you are using a tripod since your shots should be level.



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Old 11-20-2007, 07:24 PM   #30
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Wow - these are truly phenomenal pictures. Thank you for sharing!
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:28 PM   #31
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I've been using the program called Hugin. its one of the few options for Linux (also windows, not sure about mac) but its a very powerful tool. Way better than canons stitcher that I used to use a lot (though canon's photostitch was a bit easier). The defaults and automated functions work pretty well but this software has a ton of manual adjustments and features, and can do HDR, tiffs and all sorts of formats. The only thing I think is fiddly for the average user is it sometimes projects the image all funny and you might have to rotate or move it around to get it straight and level. Advanced users will probably really like it compared to other freeware.

I've stitched several images, some over 30 pictures that are 18MP each. A couple examples from The Great Range:


10 images, Larger version:


32 images, Larger version:

And just for reference, if you don't believe that last one was 32 images, here is one full image of just the center...

Larger:
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:12 PM   #32
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I use Microsoft's photo viewer, which is free and has a built in panorama stitcher.

Tip: When taking panorama shots, flip your camera to the "portrait" orientation. You'll need to take more photos to capture the same panorama, but by doing this you'll capture more space at the top and bottom of the panorama, which gives you more options when cropping the image later.
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:37 PM   #33
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TUTORIAL: Creating Panoramic Photos Using Autostitch

Hitting the thanks button on this one


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Old 01-14-2014, 12:43 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSettahr View Post
Tip: When taking panorama shots, flip your camera to the "portrait" orientation. You'll need to take more photos to capture the same panorama, but by doing this you'll capture more space at the top and bottom of the panorama, which gives you more options when cropping the image later.
That is an awesome tip I never would have thought of. Will definitely be trying it out the next time I'm taking panorama shots. Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2014, 01:09 PM   #35
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That is an awesome tip I never would have thought of. Will definitely be trying it out the next time I'm taking panorama shots. Thanks!
I suppose I should credit Carl Heilman for this piece of advice. I read it in a book of his on outdoor photography.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSettahr View Post
Tip: When taking panorama shots, flip your camera to the "portrait" orientation. You'll need to take more photos to capture the same panorama, but by doing this you'll capture more space at the top and bottom of the panorama, which gives you more options when cropping the image later.
Yeah, but don't limit yourself vertically to just what your camera can take in portrait orientation either. You can take multiple rows of photos, one over top the other, to get more height if that is desired. There is no limit really (well unless whatever software your using is limited, but most good software like Hugin can handle anything, including entire 360 degree globes).

And I probably could have elaborated better earlier, but like you say DSattahr, my shot above was taken with a single row of portrait-oriented pics...

Thats the one from earlier (I said 10 pictures, but its actually 11 since it starts counting at 0) in Hugin's preview window.



Here is an example of 4 vertical rows (but only one image wide)...


And the above pic in Hugin...

I set that to identify the images in the preview so its highlighting the images my cursor is over, to kind of show you how they overlap.




And finally here is a combo of multiple vertical and horizontal rows. 4 images high and 3 images across, for 12 images... well actually there is a thirteenth there in the corner but that’s just extra that mostly got cut out on the final crop...




The sky is the limit. If you take enough photos to span all the way around 360 degrees and back where you started, you can create a pano 'globe' (or planet, etc) like this one:

I can't take credit for that one though, just a random google image search since I have never done it. Though now I have a 10mm lens I might give it a try sometime. With my 24mm (38mm equiv on a crop sensor) it would take a crazy amount of images to complete a globe.

Oh and as far as a tutorial goes, there are great tutorials already out there just do a google search for "hugin tutorial" or whatever software your using, or if you like video tutorial do a search on youtube. For Hugin there are dozens like this one for example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGF4d_jX8K0

Happy shooting!
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:42 AM   #37
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I've been using the program called Hugin.
I've also been using Hugin for mine. Here's many that I've done with it: http://adkforum.com/showthread.php?t=19841

One problem I've had with Hugin is that sometimes it won't auto-stitch if I'm doing a pano of mountains/wilderness in the distance but in the foreground there's some pesky bushes/trees/brush. I then need to manually add the control points on overlapping images (and always save before attempting to create the pano) and fiddle with it a lot until hugin understands what's going on. E.g. if I do a pano from the cab of a firetower or from the edge of a cliff it works fine, but if I do it at the base of the firetower or from an non-bald mountain with brush, then it has issues. I think some of this is depending on the FoV on my lens and the stuff in the foreground being more distorted than Hugin was expecting to be possible.

One other thing I've been working on with Hugin is trying to balance how wide and high to go with the pano's. I started out trying to do a bunch of 360 and 270 degree panos which is fun and all, but viewing them really isn't that effective. I've had better luck keeping the panos to what would only be 2-3 normal frames wide and made of maybe 6 shots or so instead of going many frames wide and using 20+ shots.
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