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Old 10-31-2008, 09:05 PM   #1
Jim Lawyer
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Can you guess the cliff?

Can you guess this cliff?



Hint: it's near this cliff, and both are in the guidebook.



And no, Jay, this isn't Crane :-)
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Old 11-01-2008, 09:50 PM   #2
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I hope I'm right so I don't look stupid! . It's Banzai, near Peregrine Pillar.
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:20 PM   #3
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Nope. You win.
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:51 PM   #4
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Tom...ding ding. Nice. Well, to be fair, the first photo has two cliffs -- the upper one is the Banzai Wall, and the one in the lower left is, well, unnamed. The lower photo is Peregrine Pillar, but that's unfair since you did most of the FAs there.

Bonus points if you can point out the two routes there. Heh heh.
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Old 11-02-2008, 09:10 AM   #5
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OK smarty pants, how about this one?

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Old 11-02-2008, 09:18 AM   #6
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...or this one (which is just about as obscure as it gets):

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Old 11-02-2008, 12:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Lawyer View Post
...or this one (which is just about as obscure as it gets):

Is this just west of Nye near Wanika Falls and the NPT?
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Old 11-02-2008, 03:01 PM   #8
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bfinan0 - nope. I admit there's not much to go on.
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Old 11-02-2008, 08:13 PM   #9
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I haven't done the two routes at Banzai, so I can't pick them out. (I've done one of my own, but it was short and grubby and I didn't report it.) The main weakness of Banzai is that it's so difficult to describe. A good exercise for someone to do (I'm not necessarily volunteering, but if I have a free day in the Spring I may take some time) would be to write up a description of the base of the cliff like the old Dick Williams Gunks book ("...57 feet right of the pointed boulder, at a thin vertical crack that starts 8 feet off the ground..."). That might actually spur some more new route activity.

You got me on the other two..but camera angles can be funny. The first one looks very familiar, and I feel like I've been there, but I can't place it...
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Old 11-02-2008, 09:06 PM   #10
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The first one -- hint: it has a really old route on it.

The second one -- hint: think 4 hrs of bushwhacking.
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Old 11-02-2008, 11:05 PM   #11
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Porter Slab?

And, I'm thinking, Ausable #4 (the 4 hour bushwhack kind of gave it away).

I think you might be able to get to A4 a little more easily from the other direction, from the old fire observer's trail to Hurricane. The woods are a lot better on that side (if, for some crazy reason, you ever wanted to go there again...).

On a similar subject...Do you have a good online or paper resource for determining State Land / Private Land? I have an old State Land paper map, and I have the National Geographic CD. In some areas, they don't agree, and neither always agrees with the signage on the ground. New state land is never a surprise, but it's odd when an area that's shown on maps as state land turns out to be heavily and freshly posted.

Tom
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Old 11-03-2008, 08:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
Porter Slab?
Close. Nobody will get this, so I'll just say -- it's the Brothers.

The second one is Ausable #4. And there really is no reason to go back there.

A useful aid in helping with the state-versus-private-land question is the essex country GIS web site.

There's a ton of links on that page. In the section labeled "Real Property Information", select "Parcel & Property Use Data". This opens a GIS browser window. Click to zoom in and you can see all the parcels. When you are zoomed in enough, use the "i" tool (in the upper left toolbox), then click on an individual parcel. This displays the parcel owner, address, tax valuation, and so forth. Publically accessible parcels with be owned by New York State (or some land claims derivative).

There are similar web sites for most other counties, but you'll have to browse around to find them. A few counties are not online yet.

Even with such tools, if you're close to a border, you'll never know until you dig into the details -- i.e., look at deeds, find the property boundaries, and so forth.
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Old 11-03-2008, 08:58 AM   #13
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Regarding the Banzai Wall, the route descriptions are pretty good for finding the starts. There's an obvious landmark (an orange roof system), and the routes are keyed from this. If you're really interested, here they are on the photo. You can see the low orange roofs centered between the routes.



Incidentally, about 150' left of route #11, I soloed a line and traversed the top of the cliff. I found several rotten rap anchors. Yours?
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:16 AM   #14
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Another great resource for private-versus-public land was built by somebody that frequents this site:

http://adirondack-park.net/topo/

Zoom in, and be sure to hit the "Topo" button in the upper right corner of the map. The private land is shaded dark. Pretty cool. Not sure how accurate or up-to-date the land boundaries are, though.
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Old 11-03-2008, 10:20 AM   #15
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Thanks! Those web sites both look very helpful!

No, the old anchors aren't mine. The short route I did a couple years ago was on a shorter section of the cliff, to the right. If you go from route 11 to route 12, go about the same distance again, and it's in that area. There is a junky ledge about 15 feet high with some dead trees piled on it. We led a short, right facing corner from the right end of that ledge, and also top roped a couple steep faces directly above the ledge. If I recall correctly, we did not leave any anchor.

But in walking along the top of the cliff, I did see an anchor near the area you mentioned, that is not mine. It was directly above a fairly large flake (maybe 10' wide and about 8" think) sitting near the top of the cliff, that I thought was fairly deadly looking. I questioned putting a route through there.

When you look at route 11, does the appearance from the ground suggest a "wavy crack?" The 11 on your picture looks like it's near the wavy crack I had my eye on next...

Tom
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Old 11-03-2008, 10:42 AM   #16
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Tom,
My recollection is that there are several cracks and blocks here, perhaps a bit unstable looking. Not one crack, but several cracks formed by blocks. Definitely doesn't suggest a "wavy crack".
I think the cliff has great new route potential -- mostly faces with good holds but no natural protection possibilities.
Jim
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Old 11-03-2008, 12:58 PM   #17
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I agree there's a lot of potential. I'm a hand driller only, so I haven't spent much time on cliffs that require a lot of bolts (1 or 2 is my limit). I tend to hunt for crack climbs. But I remember walking over to Banzai when I was working at Peregrine ages ago, and noting the potential. There's a fairly high section on the right end that looks pretty good for face climbing.

So I took a short bushwhack on Sunday, very near the same area. Have you ever noticed the East facing patch of rock fairly high on the ridge of Tripod? It stands out when driving from ETown on a sunny morning, right about the time you pass the "Town of Keene" sign. I went all up and down the ridge, but I didn't find anything worthwhile, just several mossy slabs, any of which might have been what I see from the road. So maybe I mised it, or maybe there's nothing there...
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Old 11-03-2008, 01:01 PM   #18
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Nope, I never checked out Tripod. Not even sure where that is :-)
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Old 11-03-2008, 05:36 PM   #19
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The middle of nowhere...where else would I be? (It's across the street from Hurricane, and West of Knob Lock.) Been to the summit, too...you can't see your feet, the spruce is so thick. Years before we climbed it, Ellen and I were speaking with Adrian Edmonds about Tripod, and he chuckled "...it's mighty thick up there." We quote that often on our hikes. That's why I've been sniffing for cliffs in the North Hudson area lately. Lots of easy, open woods. I have a lot of snowshoe bushwhacks on my list for after hunting season's over.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:01 PM   #20
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Hey Jim,
Just got back from working at the Gunks; and my dial-up won't download these pics fast enough to guess 'em before I see the answers in replies. No Crane Mtn. pics in there?!
So much rock, so little time. I've yet to decide whether to spread around on different mtns. or stick close to home next season. With photos like these, I'll be mulling over tough ?s like this all winter long.
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