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Old 04-09-2009, 01:58 PM   #21
Kevin
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lots of climbers care. just flip through the AAJ some time.

I can't speak from experience but I can definitely understand the thrill of finding a new area or scoping a new line and researching it and eventually going out and climbing it. all the work and effort and patience coming to fruition as a newly established route, or crag. all the stories behind famous FAs. Personally I love all that stuff.
Meh.

Maybe I'm so late to the game that it seems more work than it's worth to explore and find the long-lost ultra crag/route. There's also so much to climb out there that I don't feel I can get to even a small percentage of it in my lifetime.

Either way - climb on.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:23 PM   #22
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well for me it's not so much about making any first ascents, but more about learning the history behind certain routes and all the stories related to the ascents. pick up Galen Rowell's "High and Wild" - some really great stories in there about some notable FAs in North America and abroad. same goes with any of Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guides - that guy was a true hardman.
it's not so much about getting your name on something than it is about exploring and discovering, pushing the limits...

I guess some people are really passionate about climbing and want to immerse themselves in it and its history, while others are in just for fun/hobby, which is cool too.

/rant
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:03 PM   #23
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I guess some people are really passionate about climbing and want to immerse themselves in it and its history, while others are in just for fun/hobby, which is cool too.
You forgot one other type... people who are passionate but just don't care for its history...

Point being - different strokes for different folks. But I don't feel someone's level of interest in the historical facts of an activity should bear weight on their interest or passion. I know a lot of climbers who have forgotten more than I'll ever know about the sport who share a similar disinterest in names, history, etc. It just sounds like you pass judgement on those who don't share the exact same type of enthusiasm as you. Maybe you didn't mean for it to come out like that. it's called a Freudian slip for a reason. But I won't judge you too harshly on it.
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:56 PM   #24
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If it was not for FA's and the sharing of routes/information NONE of us would have any information to give or nice climbing guides to provide beta.
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:05 PM   #25
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Kevin, in answer to your question -- yes, you can give me info and, at your request, I'll withhold FA info. I'll argue with you about it, but in the end, if you don't want your name known, then so be it. At least we'll have the route to enjoy.

From an ethical perspective, recording routes is important so we don't have a situation where fixed gear is added to an already-led line.
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:47 PM   #26
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From an ethical perspective, recording routes is important so we don't have a situation where fixed gear is added to an already-led line.
And I'm grateful for them, saves me getting halfway up something to find out there's no chance in hell I'd ever complete it. lol
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:24 PM   #27
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*is now eyeing the potential for FA's*

Anyone free on the 25th?
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:21 AM   #28
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I'm potentially interested. However, I leave NY for the summer May 16. What are the black flies like in that area?

They are quite friendly around Silver Lake. Maybe sometimes on the redneck side.
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:36 AM   #29
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One other thought I had while the subject is still active...

A climbing friend once said that they use the FA names as a guide to how accurate the route rating is. He said that one person who climbs a route may underrate it, while another may over. Knowing who is giving the grade helps in determining the actual difficulty of the route. BUT, there's a lot of homework involved with knowing everyone's skillset and rating tendencies since there's so many different FA names in the guides. The one example that climber had in mind was someone who was notorious fior sandbagging routes. Other than that he said he didn't know many other names to look out for, so it seemed like a lot of work to me to try and keep track...

If you climb anything on Crane and the name Jay Harrison comes up - look out! He's doing 5.13c **** and calling it 5.6 G.
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:19 PM   #30
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Kevin, I have found that most of Jay's ratings seem to be pretty accurate. Also keep in mind the +/-85% of his FA's were done solo!

The date of the FA will also give you some idea of the relative difficulty within a certain grade.

I worked on 2 new routes today.
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:01 AM   #31
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I was joking about Jay. He's the best climber I know, and I trust him above all others .
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:52 PM   #32
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Sorry for the huge image, but I thought the extra large image would be appreciated in this case.

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Old 04-15-2009, 11:04 AM   #33
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oh man *drools* yeah, I gotta get out there!
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:14 PM   #34
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Hell ya.
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:45 AM   #35
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For reference and discussion, I've created an index key of sorts using names that have been established over the years. Click here for the PDF.

Jim
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:31 AM   #36
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Thanks for the PDF Jim.

Would those who have climbed there (or who may be able to guestimate based on the photos) say that the tallest cliffs are about 100'? It would seem there's a bunch of good top roping spots. If I could get top ropes setup I could rather easily try some routes.

What's the etiquette for cleaning? Is the DEC okay with having the rock cleared away with wire brushes for climbing?
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:09 AM   #37
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Looking at the USGS maps and photos it looks like some of the cliffs are over 200’ in height.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:43 AM   #38
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WHY do I have to be on campus the day this thing opens up? Blarg! Anyone looking to hit it this weekend? I have a full rack. And I have Friday off too.
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Old 04-22-2009, 01:29 PM   #39
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Looking at the USGS maps and photos it looks like some of the cliffs are over 200 in height.
I see that now too, just looking at the tree tops relative to the rest of the wall. There are a few smaller walls though, and even with larger walls on the ends there's usually a decent stretch of top roping before they get too tall.
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:20 PM   #40
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The cliffs are much larger than they appear in aerial photos. The Center of Progress Cliff is 300'. The Outback Slab is 2 pitches. The "C" chimney on cliff #1 (called the "Mine Shaft") was first climbed in '81 in two pitches.

That said, I'm sure you can find shorter cliffs (or sections of larger cliffs) to toprope.

With regards to etiquette, what is written on page 27 of Adirondack Rock is probably good advice. Climbing activity will be under a microscope here, at least until things settle down, so be extra vigilant.

These cliffs are FAR from accessible. The nearest cliff is a 30-minute bushwhack, and it's likely you'll have no idea where you are. Many climbers report doing routes, but then are unable to find them again on subsequent trips.

Tread lightly, stay off private property, and have fun!
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