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Old 03-25-2013, 02:46 PM   #1
serotonin
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Building a "Canoe"Cart/Dolly

Well, I came very close to buying this cart today:
http://www.fedtacticaldirect.com/Sea...5_p_49445.html
despite some people having problems w/the wheel bearings and a few other minor issues. (BTW, I believe this to be the best price going right now for this model).

I would need to modify it to accept this 8 foot inflatable pontoon:
http://creekcompany.com/product.php?...cat=254&page=1
This boat can be disassembled and deflated for narrow trails if need be, but I also want the cart design to be able to accept the boat in its fully assembled and inflated state, where certain trails will allow. (I have a light-weight float-tube for the un-cartable more remote waters).

It's not a problem making the mods to the Seattle Sports ATC cart (aka Paddleboy). And yeah, I considered pulling out the pipe benders and welder and making a cart from scratch, but the reasonable price prevented that.

Then i remembered this design: http://www.castlecraft.com/canoe_dolly.htm
which is even easier to build and I have plenty of aluminum around. Again I would need to modify the design to accept the inflatable (which is 54" wide fully assembled and weighs 50 lbs.) plus assorted fishing, camping, and liquid paraphernalia.

So... the original wheels on the CastleCraft cart are 16". I am considering building a similar cart with 20" or larger pneumatic tires; in order to keep the (16" diameter) pontoons well above the ground, and roll better over roots and rocks. Does anyone know a good source for wheels, with good bearings and good prices?

Also, has anyone who owns this cart experienced any issues with it? How do you like it? Things you would change? If possible, I would love to see detailed photos of the assembly connections and the inherent folding design. (Big Ask, I know, but I don't want to completely re-invent the wheel of a tried and true cart).

It's not a big deal, but I may also need to add an extended handle if the foot pegs on the boat are not long enough to act as a comfortable pulling point.

***

Now... another option is to change the design even further; eliminate the vertical members on the cart and incorporate bicycle forks through the main cross member. This appeals to me as each wheel will be supported on two sides. (A cross axle, btw, needs to be avoided at all costs, to maintain excellent clearance). The weight of the cart is not a big issue, but I want it to be strong (and somewhat dis-assemble-able). Most importantly, I intend to beat the living snot out of this cart.

Sorry for the length of this post, but I wanted to be relatively thorough. I would love to hear your Thoughts on these ideas. I know there's a few mad-genius engineers and designers out there, and mad-genius types in general.

Thank you for attention in this Life-and-Death matter.

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Old 03-25-2013, 04:34 PM   #2
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Here are some better pics of the CastleCraft cart (photos by ADKForum's very own spidennis).
http://www.sandslave.com/portagewheels/IMG_7547.jpg
http://www.sandslave.com/portagewheels/IMG_7548.jpg
Hope it's OK to post this like that.

This is the cart I'd like to re-design to suit my needs. There is steel framework below the seat of the pontoon, which would rest on the cart. I envision the width of the cart made narrow enough so that the fully inflated pontoons would ride outside the wheels ...or above the wheels, thus creating a wider wheelbase.

The space between the fully inflated pontoons is about 22".

Your thoughts...?


Thanks.

Last edited by serotonin; 03-25-2013 at 05:23 PM..
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:32 PM   #3
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The canoe dolly is a real pain if you have a canoe on it and go the slightest bit off angle to the side. The inherently high center of mass will cause your canoe and everything in it to overturn.

They also inevitably work loose from the bottom of a canoe and go off at an angle.

The other thing I don't like abour canoe dollies is that the wheel size is too small to efficiently roll over roots and rocks. Now go back to issue #1.

Are you planning to carry camping gear in as well? Hire a Sherpa. While a pontoon boat would be an ideal craft once on a pond, getting it there may be an exercise in frustration. If you are hell-bent on building one consider a design that keeps the center of mass low. Bon Chance!
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:16 PM   #4
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So your planning taking your pontoon boat on some of the carry trails of the Adirondacks?
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:14 PM   #5
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I should have emphasized that this craft is strictly for fishing, and only in certain waters via certain trails. (It may also come in handy for dancing with wild abdomen). It is not for pond-hopping twelve bodies of water in the course of a day. Nor do I intend to take it to Cloudsplitter.

Some things are built for Comfort. Some for Speed. Some for Torture.
As far as I can tell, The Trout are not in any Rush. Neither am I.

Might I suggest re-reading what I wrote further up above?

Ye of little faith...



Do not Despair.

Every day in the woods is my first.
Can you help a brother up on his luck?

Last edited by serotonin; 03-25-2013 at 10:44 PM..
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:19 AM   #6
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I've always wondered why Hul-a-vator buyers didn't spend the cash on a lighter hull in the first place; obviating the need for the mechanical lift. OP seems to be in a similar, self induced quandary. There are lots of pack canoes at or under 20# that negotiate trails with less effort and significantly less frustration than either cart.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serotonin View Post
(It may also come in handy for dancing with wild abdomen).
Some kind of belly dance?
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:18 AM   #8
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How about a cart than can be used tipped over to one side when negotiating narrow board walks that are too narrow to have both wheels on the ground. Or maybe a narrow cart that carries the canoe on its side.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:10 PM   #9
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Are you planning to push or pull. Canoe on cart has advantage of acting like a tow bar, it's long enough, but might have to add something to tow pontoon. 50# not that heavy. As far as mounting the pontoon on the cart, how about some 50"+/- 2-3" pvc cross bars? You can take off the existing hull bars for the canoe. That is a good price on that cart.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie wilson View Post
I've always wondered why Hul-a-vator buyers didn't spend the cash on a lighter hull in the first place; obviating the need for the mechanical lift. OP seems to be in a similar, self induced quandary. There are lots of pack canoes at or under 20# that negotiate trails with less effort and significantly less frustration than either cart.
The point is that this is a superior fly fishing craft when compared to a canoe. I agree wholeheartedly with Sero's motivation. I just don't see a good technical solution (yet).
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:36 PM   #11
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?

Standing in a solo canoe to improve sight and cast distance seems to pretty well cover the bases for flyfishing. Am I missing something?
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:14 PM   #12
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Am I missing something?


Yes



Scroll down the photos to the price.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:24 AM   #13
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If I read the price correctly it said $250. A little less expensive than my pack canoe.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:54 AM   #14
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Standing in a solo canoe to improve sight and cast distance seems to pretty well cover the bases for flyfishing. Am I missing something?
Yes. The pontoon boat can be rowed to get where you want to fish and then propelled with fins. That leaves both hands free for fishing.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:06 PM   #15
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Standing in a solo canoe to improve sight and cast distance seems to pretty well cover the bases for flyfishing. Am I missing something?

I would last about 30 seconds before going over the side.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:42 AM   #16
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"Mercy..."




"I thought I told you not to call me Marcy!"





Somebody call Search and Rescue for Glen...
Last person to see him said he was blowing bubbles
after a triple gainer with seventeen twists off of somebody's lightweight canoe.

He was nicely hooked into a heritage snag.
The Judges gave him 10's because he did it with speed skates while eating a submarine sandwich.

Last edited by serotonin; 03-28-2013 at 01:17 AM..
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:40 PM   #17
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I made a cart with old wheel chair wheels. Good bearings, no axle, can't pop a tire, and they handle rocks and roots exceptionally well. Really deep mud can be a little tricky, but I've wheeled my gear-filled 15 ft aluminum canoe quite a few times without too many problems. My cart's not collapsable but that doesn't mean yours couldn't be.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:49 PM   #18
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I built this one from some stuff I had left over from other projects, like my canoe, it's heavy but built for the long haul.


More pictures and story here
http://www.canoetripping.net/forums/...DIY-Canoe-Cart
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